Photo essay: Ischia Ponte and the secret via Soronzano

One of the secrets of Ischia Ponte is the pedestrian pathway via Soronzano that connects Ischia Ponte to Cartaromana. Back in the day via Soronzano was used as a trade route between the farmers in Campagnano, up in the hill above Ischia Ponte, and the fisherman down below. The farmers would bring their produce down to the market below, buy some fish and then carry it back up.

Nowadays, the pathway meanders along stone walls hiding gardens and orchards and lazily descends down into the houses of Ischia Ponte, with lovely views of the Castello Aragonese and the sea.

Ischia Ponte, where my mom was born and raised, is my favourite town on the island and as a treat to myself, and to keep myself in driving shape now that I’ve gotten an Italian driver’s license, I’ll drive at least once a week there.

Parking is hard to find, but I park up on via Nuova Cartaromana and usually take via Soronzano down to Ischia Ponte. It’s a magical walk and I’ll take you along with me.

via soronzano
The entrance to via Soronzano from via Nuova Cartaromana

The path from the top of the hill is framed by stone walls made from the lava stone. You’ll see lots of fruit trees peeking over the wall including fig trees, peach trees, apricot trees, orange trees, and lemon trees.

via soronzano
via soronzano

The pathway then opens up with a gorgeous view of the sea and Castello Aragonese. From here you can see the town below and start your descent.

via soronzano
via soronzano
via soronzano

The path turns into an alley way where you pass by people’s homes and entrances to courtyards.

via soronzano
via soronzano

The path ends on via Giovanni di Procida and if you turn right at the end…

you’ll see this!

And just like in the past, you can still walk up to a fishing boat and get your fish for the day.

And if all the walking makes you feel like taking a swim, you can ask Angelo and he’ll take you to Cartaromana in his orange boat and you can spend the day at the beach.

But if you feel like continuing your walk, you can stop at my favourite bar Monzù and Alessandro and Luigi will be happy to make a drink for you and serve you some snacks.

As you explore Ischia Ponte, you can take in the buildings that date back to 16 and 1700s, buildings that used to house the noble families of the Aragonese dynasty as well as the shops belonging to the Augustinian monks.

There are plenty of clothing boutiques, ceramic shops and restaurants in Ischia Ponte.

And last, but definitely not least, before you head out of Ischia Ponte going towards Ischia Porto, treat yourself to an ice cream or refreshing granita at Luciano Ice.


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  1. Molto bello, Giovanna. Grazie per quello che scrivi

    Posted 6.14.19 Reply
    • Giovanna wrote:

      Grazie, Laura!

      Posted 6.17.19 Reply


  • A portrait I got done on my 30th birthday in Piazza Navona. I had just moved to Rome and spent my birthday by myself. That morning I woke up with an itchy head and realized I had gotten lice. Probably from someone on a bus. After spending the day washing my hair, clothes and sheets, I went out into the center. I wanted to get my portrait done, somehow capture turning 30. It doesn’t look like me but I see how determined I was to live in Italy even if I didn’t know how I was going to do it. Tomorrow I turn 40 and I’m still here. That’s pretty neat.
  • This morning I took my niece Adg and nephew-in-law Jayjay to the port at 6 am to get one of the first boats back to the mainland so they could catch the plane back to New York. Goodbyes and heavy sadness. I drove down to the castle and caught the sunrise and waited for their boat to pass by. The sunrise eased the sadness a tiny bit, but now I’m back home with the cats and it’s hard.
  • This summer is the best! (I gave 2 euros to some kids to take pictures of me and the ciambella. They used the money to buy candy.) #iloveischia
  • This is one of the dirt roads that takes me home during the summer. Walking here on a hot quiet afternoon reminds me when I was little and all the grownups took naps and I got to do my own secret things unobserved and in peace. #iloveischia
  • happy #solstice! this is my favourite day of the year. when i was little, i wanted to get married on either the summer solstice or the 4th of july. instead i got married on my birthday. #iloveischia

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